Happy New Year 2010

There is trouble in the camp.


Dorothée doesen't want to go on but l do! Actually it's not that dramatic at all just that we disagree on how bad the weather is. It is quite cold, between zero and 7 degrees during the day and it rained today but l really find it difficult to take a break because of this. We are trying to find a compromise but anything between stopping and going on doesen't really make sense in reality. One of us will give in and Dorothée won't be forced to bike as it is no enjoyment for her at the moment. I think l can understand this but when you're a bit stubborn in the head and also wish for the trip to be a complete success, these things can get to you.

We are in Monselice, not so far from Venice and apart from the weather, everything is really going well. We've had snow, rain, freezing mist and wind. Infact we were really lucky to get over El Paso del Bocco, a pass of 950 metres after leaving Genova in the new year. It snowed around 10 cm's the day after we had gone over which would have surely stopped us if we had been a day later. It was a chance we had heard the forecast! We biked in snow but it would have been much worse higher up and it was only for around 10 kilometres before the salt had cleared the road lower down. So it is difficult sometimes but without stating the obvious, weather thankfully changes from day to day. I hate rain and wind for instance like it was today but it hasn't rained for weeks and it is very rare that the wind and rain are right in your face. Today is my only example! I am not a crazy animal l don't think, l am not particularly resilient, l think l just believe there are always better days ahead. Rough with the smooth, c'est la vie, these expressions come from life. Yes it is winter but heh, it's not Montréal. Now there is a place that is cold enough to literally freeze your extremities when fully wrapped up.

So we spent New Year in Genova, a beautiful and particularly large city and port. We stayed in a hotel for three nights and joined in the celebrations although the hotel was really quite expensive but we justified it by it being a special occasion. This l am afraid is another sticking point and trial right now. Extravagance is difficult or not. Certainly not difficult to live it but l wish the budget to last to India so it is difficult to see it spent on Italian hotels that sometimes l feel shoulden't be stayed in when we have amazing quality outdoor gear and which we are really warm in, even in winter. I might start to sound like a boring bugger if l start to go on much longer. Genova was the city of bangers. Everywhere on New Years Eve and in the narrow alleys they were really really loud! I think my ears hurt more than Océanne's as they would be thrown near your feet and everyone would do it and anyway Océanne was half asleep.

Big road highlights definetly have to be the coast after Genova with huge rolling waves, big blue sunshine, winding roads and tunnels. Also riding in the late day sun with the snowy fields all around on the road between Guastalla and Mantova. These moments really make you feel happy to be alive and on your bike and pulling your daughter. Italy has come to life since yesterday with some really beautiful towns. Mantova, Montagnana, Este and Monselice giving you something not expected such as the walled medieval city of Montagnana. I hadn't heard of it before.

Strange meetings include the Indian who at first eventually let us sleep in his Mobile home parking area but then was waking us up at the crack of dawn demanding that we get a move on. He hassled us three times threatening to call the police and obviously not understanding how long it takes to pack our bikes up in the morning. The third time was nearly the last straw as we had virtually got all the bags packed and l had got the tent down when he said the immortal words, 'It's 9 o'clock, what are you doing, l've already lost my job, l'm calling the police'. This all in an aggressive Indian accent when we were on our way out after packing in a record time of an hour and a half. He hadn't lost his job but was just very fearful and paranoid of the Italian police. I wish he had called the police. He got a mean look from Dorothée alright. A week before that we had a mad French lady saying that all her fellow townspeople were nasty with the immortal words of, 'Do you know this town'. We didn't obviously and were only asking for a place to camp. We were not reported to the police as she reckoned would happen and passed a peaceful night in a town that on entering had a sign that it was, infact, a commune for peace!

We have been touched however. On the way up El paso del Bocco, Angelo invited us in for coffee which for me was given with Grappa, a very strong and in this case, homemade spirit. A very gentle older man who had only recently been left by his wife who he had been with for 40 years and now lived in his house alone. Only two days ago we camped on the grounds of a large family and the man who seemed to be the head of the family gave us gifts of Panettone, a large traditional sweet bread, milk and chocolate for Océanne. I think he was worried because it was minus 2 degrees that morning. Océanne recieves gifts nearly every day in Italy. To Italians she is their 'bambina', meaning baby girl and never escapes without a gift of something sweet or maybe a pen! I wish l was her. She is very well and apart from the weather so is Dorothée. Pizza never fails here either! I rate the restaurant in Imperia as the best we have had.

All my thoughts and a big Happy New Year, Rupert x.

3591.5 km's and 9 flats